Let’s be honest: few things in the beauty aisle are as confusing as eye cream. Quantum mechanics? Sure, that’s complicated. But somewhere right after that comes the tiny jar promising to erase dark circles, de-puff under-eye bags, and turn back the clock on fine lines. Eye creams are among the most-searched products on Google year after year, which tells you two things: people are curious, and people are skeptical. Can one product really do it all? Or is the humble eye cream just a glorified moisturizer with a higher price tag?

To sort through the noise, Into The Gloss spoke with Dr. Chaneve Jeanniton, an ocular plastic surgeon who specializes in cosmetic and reconstructive procedures around the eyes. (Yes, that’s a real specialty, and only about 20 people in the U.S. train in it every year—so she knows her stuff.) With her help, here are four key questions to ask yourself before deciding whether an eye cream belongs in your skincare routine.

Question 1: What Do You Actually Want Eye Cream to Do?

Think of eye cream like a phone case: it’s not life-changing, but over time, it protects against wear and tear. The catch? If it’s working, you may not notice immediate results. Prevention is subtle—you’ll see fewer fine lines develop years from now, not the morning after you apply it.

That said, some formulas can deliver quick, albeit modest, benefits. Ingredients like caffeine can reduce puffiness, reflective pigments can brighten shadows, and vitamins can smooth dry, crepey skin. Dr. Jeanniton puts it plainly: “Eye creams can help address dryness, fine lines, and dark circles related to pigment. Outside of that, they tend to overpromise.”

Translation: If you’re expecting an eye cream to completely erase crow’s feet or perform a nonsurgical eyelid lift, you’ll be disappointed. For major concerns, that’s dermatologist or surgeon territory.

Question 2: Why Not Just Use My Face Moisturizer?

It’s tempting to think your trusty moisturizer can multitask—and sometimes it can. But the skin around your eyes is thinner and more sensitive than the rest of your face, so not every cream makes the cut.

Eye creams are often defined not by what they include, but by what they leave out. Fragrances and preservatives that might be fine on your cheeks can cause irritation when applied near your eyes. Rich occlusive ingredients that feel luxurious elsewhere may clog pores and lead to milia (those tiny white bumps that pop up around the eye area).

If you do use a face moisturizer, stick with a lightweight, fragrance-free option, and avoid slathering it on your eyelids. That brings us to the next question…

Question 3: Can I Apply It All Around My Eyes?

When you think “eye cream,” you probably imagine targeting the entire orbital area—under-eyes, crow’s feet, even eyelids. But not every product is designed for that full-circle approach. In fact, many are meant strictly for the under-eye zone.

Your eyelid skin is especially delicate, and anything too heavy or too active can migrate into your eye itself (ouch). The safest bet is to follow the product’s instructions to the letter. If the label says “eyelid safe,” you’re good to go. If not, keep it under the eyes only.

Question 4: Can I Afford to Use It Consistently?

Here’s the not-so-fun part: eye creams are pricey. According to Dr. Jeanniton, formulating an eye product costs significantly more—sometimes over double—than a standard face cream on a per-ounce basis. And because consistency is everything, buying an expensive jar once won’t get you far. The best eye cream is the one you can commit to repurchasing every three to six months.

And if you’re young? You may not need one at all. “There are better ways to spend your skincare dollars in your teens and early twenties,” says Dr. Jeanniton. Think sunscreen, gentle cleansers, and maybe a retinoid if you’re ready. Eye cream can wait.

So… Should You Bother?

Here’s the bottom line: eye creams aren’t magical, but they aren’t useless either. If you want a subtle boost in hydration, brightness, or smoothness—and you’ve got the budget for it—go ahead and pick one up. But temper your expectations. It’s not going to erase years of late-night Netflix binges or reverse genetics.

Ultimately, eye cream is about maintenance, not miracles. Like flossing, you won’t notice dramatic change day to day, but your future self might thank you for the habit. And if you’d rather skip it and let your regular moisturizer do double duty? That’s perfectly fine too—as long as you’re smart about ingredients and application.

Confusing? Yes. Necessary? Depends. But at least now, you know the right questions to ask before adding another tiny jar to your already crowded skincare shelf.