For a brief moment, it looked like fashion week might open with a whisper instead of a roar. The first shows leaned heavily into the “clean girl aesthetic”—polished buns, soft neutrals, and barely-there makeup. Chic? Absolutely. But also predictable. Thankfully, it didn’t take long for the tide to turn. By the time Christopher John Rogers staged his much-anticipated return at the Brooklyn Navy Yard, backstage was alive with saturated hues, sculptural hairpieces, and nails that couldn’t be accused of playing it safe. Variety was back on the menu.
To capture the energy, photographer Emma Craft went behind the scenes, where artistry, experimentation, and a touch of chaos unfolded. Here’s a look at the standout moments shaping the season’s beauty story.
Brandon Maxwell: Quiet Minimalism
For a 9:30 a.m. call time, Brandon Maxwell’s backstage was surprisingly serene. No dramatic meltdowns, no chaos—just steady, focused artistry. Lead makeup artist Fulvia Farolfi kept things soft and understated, leaning on Merit’s cult-favorite blush balm in Terracotta for a subtle flush. Nails, styled by Jin Soon, weren’t as bare as they appeared—matte topcoat elevated the natural look. Hair was pulled into low, neck-grazing buns that matched the collection’s pared-down mood. Minimalism, yes, but polished to perfection.
Christopher John Rogers: A Burst of Spectacle
After a two-year break from the runway (and five from NYFW proper), Christopher John Rogers didn’t hold back. Backstage was electric. Jin Soon swapped out neutral manicures for earthy, jewel-toned designs, while MAC’s Alex Levy layered teal and olive pigments into what he dubbed a “galactic lip”—topped with a slick of gloss for interstellar shine. A handful of models wore unapologetic cherry-red lipstick, making bold statements against the show’s sleek aesthetic.
Hair told its own story. Stylist Sonny Molina parted strands into geometric, basket-weave patterns, reinforcing a sense of order and control. But the pièce de résistance was the “severe bang”—exaggerated faux-fringes prepped in individual baggies, waiting to be applied like treasured accessories. Organized chaos never looked so chic.
Sandy Liang: Messy, Sexy, Real
At Sandy Liang, beauty leaned into imperfection. Bright strokes of pink, chartreuse, and blue lit up eyelids, courtesy of Fara Homidi, while hairstylist Evanie Frausto imagined a girl fresh from a hot summer commute. The look was effortless, slightly undone—ponytails, claw clips, a sheen of heat-induced texture. Think “I didn’t try, but I look incredible.” Amika’s styling lineup (Fluxus hairspray, Headstrong hold, Superfruit oil) anchored the aesthetic. The effect was both playful and relatable, the kind of cool-girl glam you could actually replicate on a rushed morning.
Ulla Johnson: Subtle Elegance
While Ulla Johnson’s clothes dazzled with gold accents and intricate textures, the beauty stayed refined. Hairstylist Mustafa Yanaz of Tresemmé enhanced models’ natural textures with “wind-kissed waves” and delicately woven fishtails. Meanwhile, Romy Soleimani’s makeup paired blurred mulberry lips or whisper-thin cat eye wings with glowing skin prepped by Sisley skincare. The look celebrated individuality, letting each model shine as the best version of themselves—no heavy-handed tricks required.
Meruert: Surreal Playfulness
Backstage at Meruert felt like stepping into a dreamscape. Baby hairs were slicked into ornamental coils across foreheads, while sculptural towers of braided extensions reached skyward in gravity-defying stacks. The effect was whimsical, bordering on theatrical. Makeup director Kanako Takase leaned into the mood with “exhausted beauty”—soft washes of red and brown shadows smudged under the eyes, suggesting restless nights or artistic abandon. It was strange, surprising, and entirely unforgettable.
Luar: Club Energy, Elevated
At Luar, the mood was pure nostalgia with a sharp edge. MAC’s Terry Barber revisited cut-crease glam, nodding to drag culture with stark white shadows extending to the brow bone. Others received sculpted contour that exaggerated cheekbones into works of art. Hair, led by Jawara, alternated between sleek buns, cornrows, and experimental textures where strands brushed up at the front and tucked into low buns at the back. Nails pushed things even further: four-inch talons, feathered for dramatic flair. This was backstage energy at its loudest and proudest.
Diotima: Intimate Storytelling
The final show we caught, Diotima, paid homage to matriarchs and everyday rituals. Wigs lined the backstage, styled to echo Dawoud Bey’s photographs of a family matriarch in rollers. Hairstylist Joey George reimagined the rollers as half-undone curls, like hair loosening over the course of an evening. Makeup by Kanako channeled rage and rebellion with deep burgundy blush, shadowy eyes, and even glossy black rose petals applied to a single lid. Nails, styled by Naomi Yasuda, contrasted in either bold red or serene neutrals. It was a story told through beauty—rooted in history, yet bursting with fresh imagination.
The Takeaway
This season proved that fashion week is at its best when minimalism and maximalism coexist. Some shows whispered with barely-there details, while others shouted with color, texture, and drama. From Brandon Maxwell’s studied restraint to Meruert’s surreal whimsy, each backstage offered a reminder: beauty is a spectrum, and the fun lies in the contrast.
For anyone tempted to stick with beige polish and a slick bun, this season had a clear message: variety is not only welcome, it’s essential.
